There’s a bridge in Cologne decorated with tens of thousands of multi-coloured padlocks. They bear inscribed initials and significant dates of the couples who left them.
It is then customary for the lovers to stand on the bridge and toss the keys over their shoulders into the waters of the River Rhine below.
This bridge can be found on any map but the story behind how it become a focal point for such romantic gestures is on few, if any, tourist information flyers.
That in itself is the beauty of Germany’s fourth biggest city. It has an appeal that not even it is yet to realise. A selfish part of me doesn’t want to tell anyone about my experience in Cologne in fear it will be like that modest, pretty girl at school who slaps on too much make-up to fit in.
In fact Cologne is perfect as it is.
The city like much of its population is in its youth and described by one of my tour guides as ‘the free spirit of Germany that speaks out of turn’.
Last year the ‘Free Spirit of Cologne’ was twinned with the Brazilian city of Rio.
While us Brits signal the beginning of Lent with pancakes, those in Cologne - already taking influence from its South American cousin - kicks off a week of street carnivals during which the people dress-up and parade through the streets dancing, playing music and throwing sweets to the crowds.
Despite its population of more than a million residents the city maintains a sense of intimacy and many sites are within walking distance of the birth place of Eau du Cologne at the Farina Fragrance Museum and the Imhoff-Schokoladenmuseum (chocolate museum to you and I) a short stroll away from each other in Cologne’s centre.
It is as easy to find your way around Cologne as it is to stumble upon one of the many bierkellers that sell the locally brewed ales known as Kolsh beer. A metre of ale can set you back around 18 euros but while German ale houses conjure up images of overflowing jugs, in Cologne you are presented with ten drinks in flute glasses housed in a meter long beer holder that closely resembles a spice rack more than a novelty jug.
The city’s centrepiece, however, is the cathedral - Germany’s most visited site.
The gothic structure that has stood at the heart of the settlement for almost 700 years is famed for its double spires that reach more than 500ft towards the heavens.
The cathedral carries significant pull to Christians on pilgrimages as it is believed to hold the remains of the Three Wise Men. The skulls of the kings are encased in a decorative gold and silver shrine and on rare occasions the box is opened to show the 2,000 year-old bones of the men.
I’m assured the remains are not as grim as they sound.
The theme of the Three Wise Men makes the city such an attractive location during Christmas – if you can bare to think that far ahead – the festivities are embraced by the locals who make mock nativity scenes throughout the centre of Cologne where the city effectively turns into one huge festive market.
The bistros, cafés and bars along The Rhine’s riverside are a must.
What was rare compared with other ‘touristy’ cities I’ve been to was a blend of visitors and locals who appeared quite happy to embrace travellers in these venues. I found this while ordering a drink in one bar where he gave me extra measures because firstly the weather was ‘a little chilly’ and then again for being English. I don’t know why but I took the advice of Basil Fawlty and didn’t mention the war on that occasion.
ADAM THOMPSON
Adam Thompson flew to Cologne with Germanwings which offers flights out of Stansted and Manchester. He stayed at the five-star Hotel Excelsior which sits in the shadow of the city’s Cathedral. If you fancy top or tailing your city break with a bang at this venue it will set you back about anything from £130 a night.
